Looking for accommodation for a family in Kuala Lumpur is a non-trivial task. It’s okay when you’re 2 adults and 1 child, but with 2 children, it gets to be a pain, mostly because most hotel rooms only have room for one extra rollaway bed and the kids are getting too big to share the one single bed. (And why is it that most hotel reception staff can only give you the size of the room — “It’s 47 square metres, ma’am”? I mean, am I an interior decorator? Can I magically divine what, and how, the furniture has been laid out and what will, and won’t fit? — rather than whether 2 rollaway beds will fit in there? But, as usual, I digress.)
So, when I found the Heritage Railway Station Hotel, offering a Family Suite for only RM$180 a night, including breakfast, I jumped at the chance. The old railway station in KL is a lovely example of Moorish-ish architecture (Yes, there are two “ish”s there for a reason; I’ll go into the history of KL architecture another time), and the fact that part of it had been converted to a hotel fulfilled all of my railway-heritage dreams. Which were soon dashed.
You know how you enter a place sometime, and take a look around, and all you can think is that it needs a damn good hose down and scrubbing? That’s what the Railway Station Hotel is like. The bones are terrific: great architecture, graceful curves, timber balustrades, old-fashioned wire-cage elevator. The execution sucks big time. The blankets and towels provided are so thin you can almost see through them. The room windows are small and dingy. The furniture is old and cracked, with ill-fitting doors and missing catches. Everything water-related that could leak in the bathroom, did. The hot water wasn’t. You can imagine the dust rising from the carpet, pillows and beds every time you rest your gaze on them. On the plus side, the air-conditioning worked. The mattresses weren’t bad. And the rooms are huge.
For breakfast, you have a choice of two dishes — local and western. (For us, it was fried rice or omelette.) If you want another cup of tea or coffee, you have to pay for it. With the exception of the young man at the front desk and one other person, the staff looked beaten down and demoralised. As we soon became. Not the kids, of course; they loved it. But that’s what makes tagging kids along such an adventure for parents.
Actually, in my opinion, the only reason to visit the Heritage Railway Station Hotel is for one man — the dude who seems to run the hotel’s “restaurant”. It might look nice in the pictures (if you decide to follow the link to the Hotel and have a poke around). But, in reality, imagine that room after being buried in dust for two centuries, then quickly swept clear by a bunch of inept archaeologists. Ah yes, that’s closer to what we faced in the morning. But back to the maitre’d. He is, without a doubt, a dusky Basil Fawlty: tall and lanky, with an eternally morose expression on his face, and a nervous, held-in, violent energy. He moved jerkily from table to table, barking out orders to the sole waitress, without changing the expression on his face. He picked up breakfast plates almost before the customer was finished. He crushed errant pieces of paper convulsively in his hand before whisking them away. Nothing ever seemed to please him. And he was a delight to watch.
I was waiting for him to berate a customer for not finishing her tea fast enough, or to take umbrage with a complaint from someone, but he was stubbornly uncooperative in this regard. Still, there was enough entertainment on offer for me to be engagingly distracted during breakfast.
Despite “Basil”, however, I will not be returning to the Heritage Railway Station Hotel and, unless you want to relive some B-grade comedy/horror movie vibe set in a creepy hotel, I suggest you stay away from it too. At least until it has swallowed swags of money and been properly turned into the gracious, and sinuously graceful, hotel it can be.